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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising: (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips, and more particularly in semi-permanent mascaras, foundations and lipsticks.
    公开号:FR3058888A1
    申请号:FR1662634
    申请日:2016-12-16
    公开日:2018-05-25
    发明作者:Anne-Sophie RATTINA；Valerie Alard；Laurent Neau
    申请人:LVMH Recherche GIE；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    ® FRENCH REPUBLIC
    NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:
    (to be used only for reproduction orders)
    ©) National registration number
    058 888
    62634
    COURBEVOIE
    ©) Int Cl 8 : A 61 K8 / 02 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 73, 8/85, 8/891, 8/89, 8/31, A 61 O 1/06, 1/08, 1 / 10, A 45 D 40/00, C 09 D 189/04,
    C 08 L 3/04, 43/04, 33/08, 83/04
    A1 PATENT APPLICATION
    ©) Date of filing: 16.12.16. © Applicant (s): LVMH RECHERCHE Groupement (30) Priority: 23.11.16 FR 1661398. of economic interest - FR. ©) Inventor (s): RATTINA ANNE-SOPHIE, ALARD VALERIE and NEAU LAURENT. (43) Date of public availability of the request: 25.05.18 Bulletin 18/21. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ©) Holder (s): LVMH RECHERCHE Intergroup related: economic loan. ©) Extension request (s): @) Agent (s): CABINET BEAU DE LOMENIE.
    FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION BASED ON PULLULAN, AND ITS USE IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIPS.
    FR 3 058 888 - A1 (<v) The invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising:
    (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent.
    The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips, and more particularly in semi-permanent mascaras, foundations and lipsticks.
    i
    FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION BASED ON PULLULAN, AND ITS USE IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIPS
    The present invention relates to a new film-forming composition, and to its use in the field of cosmetics. More particularly, the present invention relates to a new composition comprising a new mixture of ingredients based on trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, and of polysilsesquioxane resin.
    The invention also relates to compositions and methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention. Mascaras, foundations and lipsticks comprising a composition according to the invention are also objects of the invention. Finally, a makeup kit comprising such a composition also forms part of the invention.
    PRIOR STATE OF THE ART AND PURPOSE OF THE INVENTION
    The cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care must meet complex specifications comprising a multitude of criteria. We can cite for example the stability and the resistance of the product over time, the comfort during its application and over time once applied. However, these criteria are difficult to satisfy simultaneously: for example, increasing the hold of a make-up product very often leads to a reduction in the comfort felt by the user, linked to drying, feelings of stickiness, or heaviness of the deposit on keratin materials, skin or lips.
    There is therefore a need to maintain the hold (adhesion) of the makeup and / or care products over a long period, that is to say for at least 24 hours, while retaining their flexibility and their comfort of application. .
    Pullulan is known from US application 2003/0082221 for its use as a non-sticky film-forming agent in the cometic field. Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide (ose polymer) made up of maltotriose units (a glucose triholoside), also known as alpha-1,4-; alpha-1,6-glucan. The three glucose units that make up maltotriose are linked by an alpha-1,4 type sugar link, while the maltotrioses are connected to each other by alpha-1,6 type sugar links. Pullulan is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans.
    Pullulan derivatives of the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan type are also commonly used in make-up products. Application KR2015100201 describes, for example, very soft water-in-oil cosmetic compositions based on urethane polymer, of one or more species chosen from a silicone resin, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan and an acrylic silicone copolymer, and a silicone gum or a polymer. silicone. Application WO2014181747 also describes cosmetic compositions, and in particular mascara, based on trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, easy to apply and having good adhesion, without sticky effect, as well as a good retention effect.
    However, the combination of pullulan with an acrylate copolymer and a specific polysilsesquioxane resin to obtain compositions having significantly improved resistance over time has never been described or suggested in the state of the art.
    One of the objectives of the present invention therefore consists in providing a film-forming composition combining long-lasting (greater than 24 hours) and comfort of application. This composition makes it possible to formulate products for making up the skin and / or keratin materials such as mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, which leave a feeling of softness and suppleness on the keratin materials, the skin and the lips, without cardboard effect. It is unexpectedly that the inventors discovered that the combination of a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan with an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and a polysilsesquioxane resin, leads to a synergistic effect, allowing the formulation of film-forming compositions. which leave a supple, light, soft, non-greasy and non-sticky feeling, while presenting a significantly improved adhesion, and therefore a resistance to water, sebum and perspiration, as well as to friction, superior to that of compositions of the prior art.
    DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
    According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a film-forming composition comprising:
    (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or an acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent.
    The trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is advantageously a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan in which the alkyl groups are preferably Ci-C 6 . Even more advantageously, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
    Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the film-forming composition comprises:
    (i) trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or an acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent.
    In the film-forming composition of the invention, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) can represent from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane (ii) copolymer preferably represents from 0.5 to 30%, more preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    According to another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (ii) is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
    In the film forming composition of the invention, the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is preferably a resin of formula (R-SiO 3/2) x wherein:
    R represents a C1-C20 alkyl radical, a C1-C20 alkenyl radical, a C3-C12 cycloalkyl radical, a C4-C12 aryl radical, or a C1-C20 aralkyl radical, and x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitions are intended:
    Alkyl: a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group, linear or branched C1-C20, preferably C1-C12, more preferably Ci-C 6, and even more preferably Ci-C 4. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkyl chain. Mention may be made, as alkyl group, of methyl, ethyl, npropyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl and n-pentyl groups.
    Alkenyl: an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising a covalent double bond between two carbon atoms, linear or branched, C 2 -C 20 , preferably C 2 -C i2 , more preferably C 2 -C 6 , and even more preferably C 2 -C 4 . The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a straight alkenyl chain. As an alkenyl group, mention may be made, for example, of ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, t-butylene and n-pentylene groups.
    Cycloalkyl: any functional or substituent group derived from a non-aromatic ring containing at least 3 carbon atoms, and preferably C 3 -C i2 , optionally comprising, optionally, one or more heteroatoms chosen from P, S, O and N. Among such groups, mention may especially be made of cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; the cyclohexyl group being preferred.
    Aryl: any functional group or substituent derived from at least one aromatic ring; an aromatic cycle corresponds to any planar mono- or polycyclic group comprising a delocalized π system in which each atom of the cycle comprises a p orbital, said p orbitals overlapping each other; among such aryl groups, mention may be made of phenyl, biphenyl, naphthalene and anthracene groups. The aryl groups of the invention preferably comprise from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 5 to 6 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the aryl group of the invention is a phenyl group.
    Aralkyl: any group derived from an alkyl group as defined above in which a hydrogen atom is replaced by an aryl group.
    According to a preferred embodiment, the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
    Said polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) can represent from 1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 25%, and even more preferably from 5 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    In the film-forming composition of the invention:
    the rate by weight of the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) can represent from 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), the rate by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate copolymer / polydimethylsiloxane (ii) can represent from 15 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and the content by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) can represent from 50 to 70% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
    Preferably, the film-forming composition of the invention comprises:
    from 10 to 25% by weight of trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), from 15 to 30% by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and from 50 to 70% by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
    In another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the components (i), (ii) and (iii) is included in the range 1/1/1 to 1/5/10, and even more advantageously in the range 1/1/3 to 1/2/4. According to an even more advantageous embodiment, it is 1 / 1.5 / 3.5.
    These preferred embodiments of the invention have quite remarkable holding and comfort properties.
    The film-forming composition of the invention also comprises at least one volatile solvent (or volatile oil) (iv). For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile solvent” means a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (750 mm Hg, i.e. 105 Pa). The volatile solvent is liquid at room temperature, and has a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa at 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa. The volatile solvent (iv) of the invention can be a hydrocarbon, silicone solvent, or mixtures thereof. These solvents can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an alternative embodiment, the solvents of vegetable origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone solvent” means a solvent comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one group
    Si-O. The term "hydrocarbon solvent" means a solvent mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. The solvents may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Mention may be made from hydrocarbon volatile solvents having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched alkanes, C 8 -C 6 such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) C 8 IC6 as isododecane, isodecane, the 'isohexadecane, branched C 8 -C 6 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is more preferably isododecane. Mention may also be made of linear C 8 -C 6 alkanes, in particular C 10 -C 15, and more particularly C 11 -C 13, as well as their mixtures, such as the undecane-tridecane mixture. As volatile silicone solvents, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone solvents such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Cyclic silicone volatile solvents that may be mentioned include cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
    The volatile solvent (iv) is advantageously chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, or their mixtures. In a particularly advantageous manner, the volatile solvent (iv) is isododecane.
    The volatile solvent (iv) can represent from 10 to 70%, preferably from 15 to 65%, and even more preferably from 20 to 60%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The film-forming composition of the invention may also contain cosmetic ingredients leading to complementary effects such as moisturizing, structuring or coloring agents.
    The film-forming composition of the invention may in particular comprise at least one silicone elastomer, different from the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii), having viscoelastic properties. The silicone elastomer used in the present invention improves the feel of the film-forming composition; it also has a blurring and mattifying function. Said silicone elastomer is advantageously chosen from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) (or dimethicone), methyl-polysiloxane (MQ), vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (VMQ), phenyl-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (PVMQ), fluoro -vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (FVMQ), and mixtures thereof. The silicone elastomer of the invention is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder.
    The silicone elastomer of the invention can represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    A film-forming polymer can also be present in the film-forming composition of the invention. The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, said support possibly being made up of fibers whose shape and dimensions are those of keratin fibers. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. By “copolymer” is meant a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure. The film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from:
    the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), and preferably the copolymers of VP and of C 2 -C 20 alkene, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP),
    - copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate ,
    polyolefins or polyalphaolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
    the alkylcelluloses, and preferably the alkylcelluloses carrying a C 2 -C6 alkyl group, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
    - polyvinyl alcohols, and
    - their mixtures.
    The film-forming polymer preferably represents from 0.5 to 10%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The film-forming composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring material advantageously chosen from pigments and nacres. The particles constituting these coloring matters preferably have a diameter not exceeding 200 μm, and even more preferably not exceeding 150 μm.
    The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, coated or not, insoluble in an aqueous phase, intended to color and / or opacify the film-forming composition containing them. Among the pigments which can be used in the film-forming composition of the invention, mention is made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and their mixtures. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. It may also be pigments having a structure which can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments of the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
    By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Among the nacres which can be used in the film-forming composition of the invention, mention is made of white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearly pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection. Advantageously, the nacres of the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, as well as with bismuth oxychloride.
    The coloring matter can be treated with an organic agent which is deposited on the surface of the coloring matter by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction, or creation of covalent bonds between the organic agent and the coloring matter. Advantageously, the organic agent is a silicone or an amino acid. The coloring matter is preferably a pigment coated with a layer of silicone, more preferably with a layer of methicone, of dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), of hydrogenated dimethicone, of a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, of a copolymer acrylate-dimethicone, and even more preferably with a layer of dimethicone. In a particularly advantageous manner, the coloring matter is a pigment chosen from iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides, coated in a layer of dimethicone.
    The film-forming composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of coloring matter relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The film-forming composition of the invention can also comprise at least one wax intended to thicken the film and give a more viscous texture to the composition during its application. By “wax” is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (at 25 ° C.), with change of solid state / reversible liquid, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 200 ° C, and in particular up to 120 ° C. Within the meaning of the present invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The waxes capable of being used in the context of the present invention are waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, synthetic waxes, or mixtures thereof. They can therefore be of natural or synthetic origin. The waxes of the invention can be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, and optionally contain ester or hydroxyl functions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C is equal to 0 (J.cm ' 3 ) 1/2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter is described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensionnai solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). Apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom. The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C is different from 0 (J.cm ' 3 ) 1/2 . In particular, by “polar wax” is meant a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
    The wax of the invention is advantageously chosen from:
    so-called “apolar” waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, and so-called “polar” waxes, such as for example beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, wax of cork fibers, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, in C 8 -C 3 2, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol , castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
    Mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of paraffins, beeswax and candellila waxes, and mixtures thereof.
    The wax or waxes of the invention may be present in an amount of 1 to 40%, and preferably from 10 to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The film-forming composition of the invention can also comprise at least one gelling compound advantageously chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; triesters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acid and of mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri (hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin). The gelling compound of the invention is preferably a natural or synthetic clay chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotite, attapulgite, vermiculite and zeolites. Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Even more preferably, hectorites modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride are used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two C14-C20 alkyl radicals, such as the disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.
    The gelling compound can represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
    The film-forming composition of the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as solid fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, filters solar, and mixtures thereof.
    The film-forming composition of the invention may be a cosmetic composition, and in particular be presented in all the cosmetic forms conventionally used for applications on keratin fibers, the skin, or the lips, such as the solid, liquid or even liquid forms. under pressure. It can in particular be formulated in the form of a solution, a cream, a gel, a foam, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular in stick or powder.
    The film-forming composition of the invention can be prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:
    (a) hot mixing of any waxes and film-forming polymers, (b) addition of any coloring matter to the preparation obtained at the end of step (a), with stirring, (c) mixing at room temperature ( 25 ° C) of components (i), (ii), (iii), and (iv), and possible clays, and (d) mixing of the preparation obtained at the end of step (b) with the preparation obtained at the end of step (c), with stirring.
    Step (a) of hot mixing can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 50 to 120 ° C., and preferably from 70 to 100 ° C.
    The coloring matter added during step (b) is preferably dry ground beforehand, for example using a WARING® type grinder.
    Mixing step (c) can be carried out in an agitator such as a TURBOTEST (VMI) agitator.
    When the film-forming composition of the invention is intended for the formulation of mascaras, the process for the preparation of said film-forming composition may optionally comprise an additional step (e) of grinding the preparation obtained at the end of step (d) in order to obtain a powder formed from fine solid particles. This grinding step (e) can be carried out in a three-cylinder mill such as an EXAKT 50i mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
    The invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of application to keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes, the skin and / or the lips, of a film-forming composition according to the invention.
    Another subject of the invention relates to a film consisting of a film-forming composition according to the invention preferably having a thickness ranging from 150 to 800 μm.
    An additional object of the invention relates to the use of a film-forming composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips.
    Within the meaning of the invention, the term “keratin materials” refers to human keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, and artificial keratin fibers such as the false eyelashes. A makeup composition intended to be applied to keratin fibers is also called "mascara".
    Thus, the present invention also covers semi-permanent mascaras, long-lasting foundations, and long-lasting lipsticks, comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention. These makeup products combine hold, comfort and flexibility, for at least 24 hours. In particular, a mascara has an outfit of at least 24 hours, even 48 hours, and resists a day, a night and a shower.
    A final object of the invention relates to a makeup kit comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention, packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for removing and applying said composition to the keratin fibers, the skin and / or the lips.
    The reservoir can advantageously be a bottle, a cup or a pot.
    The sampling and application means may advantageously be a brush, a paint brush, a sponge or a cellular foam.
    In addition to the foregoing provisions, the invention also comprises other provisions which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of film-forming compositions according to the invention, and to FIGS. 1 and 2 which demonstrate the properties chemical resistance and adhesion of the film-forming compositions of the invention.
    EXAMPLES
    EXAMPLE 1:
    A film-forming composition according to the invention (composition 1) and two compositions representative of the state of the art (compositions 2 and 3) were prepared as described below. Composition 3 is a composition according to application WO2014181747.
    The three formulations prepared have the following compositions (the quantities are expressed in% by weight):
    Ingredients Composition 1(invention) Composition 2(comparative) Composition 3(comparative) Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan 20 20 20 Copolymeracrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate 20 20 Copolymeracrylate / polydimethylsiloxane - - 20 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 20 - - T ri methyl if loxysi 1 icate - 20 20 Isododecane 40 40 40
    The raw materials used are as follows:
    - Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan: TSPL-30-ID F (Shin-Etsu Silicone),
    - Acrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer: Dow Corning® FA 4004 ID,
    - Acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer: KP-550 (Shin-Etsu Silicone),
    - Polymethylsilsesquioxane: SilForm Flexible Resin (Momentive),
    - Trimethylsiloxysilicate: BELSIL® TMS 805 (Wacker Chemie AG),
    - Isododecane (INEOS Oligomers).
    The polymethylsilsesquioxane or trimethylsiloxysilicate resin is firstly dispersed in isododecane using a VMI RAYNERI agitator, at room temperature. The trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan is then added, then the acrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer or the acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer.
    The following tests were then carried out:
    • Visual aspect :
    The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a 150 μm bar of air gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity. The visual appearance of the dry films is then observed.
    • Chemical resistance:
    The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a 150 μm bar of air gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
    The dried samples are then placed in three separate test media:
    - in water at room temperature (22 ° C),
    - in water at 40 ° C, and
    - in an artificial sebum consisting of 25% by weight of golden jojoba oil (Desert Essence), 60% by weight of MIGLYOL® 829 (IOI Oleo GmbH), and 15% by weight of phytosqualan (Sophim), then stirred using a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) IKAMAG® RCT, at a speed of 400 revolutions / minute, for a period of 30 minutes.
    • Membership test:
    Compositions 1 to 3 are placed on Leneta contrast cards (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a 150 µm air gap bar. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity.
    The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated using a grid method, using an ELCOMETER® 1542 Cross Hatch Adhesion Tester instrument.
    6X2 mm. Incisions are made on the samples, maintaining uniform pressure on the ELCOMETER® instrument while moving it, to form a grid. An adhesive strip (Tesa® 64620) is then placed in the center of the grid, then smoothed with your finger. The ribbon is then quickly torn off at an angle of 60 °.
    The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated according to ISO 2409:
    Table 1
    Area
    Typical description of the result
    ISO
    The edges of the sections are completely smooth, no square of the grid is detached.
    • »* 1 « »· t ·» ·· •, k 9 ·
    I "· · / ·,
    Detachment of small scales from the coating at the intersections of the sections. Affected area <5% of the test area.
    The coating releases small strips along the edges and / or at the intersection of the cutouts. Affected area between 5% and 15% of the test area.
    The coating flakes along the edges, completely or partially in long ribbons and / or flakes partially or completely on different parts of the 3 squares. Affected area between 15% and 35% of the test area.
    The coating flakes off along the edges of the sections in large ribbons and / or some squares have come off partially or entirely. Affected area between 35% and 65% of the test area.
    The degree of flaking is such that it cannot be classified in 4 (IB).
    The results of the visual, chemical resistance and adhesion tests are presented in Table 2 below:
    Table 2
    Visual aspect Membership Composition 1 (invention) Homogeneous film 3 Composition 2 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5 Composition 3 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5
    Composition 1 representative of the invention has greater adhesion than that of compositions 2 and 3. Composition 1 also resists water at ambient temperature, at 40 ° C., as well as sebum.
    · Wettability test:
    Compositions 1 to 3 are placed on Leneta contrast cards (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a 150 µm air gap bar. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
    The test is carried out by measuring at room temperature (25 ° C) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on the samples, using a Drop Shape Analyzer- DSA100B instrument (Krüss ).
    The angle is measured just after depositing the drop, then 5 minutes after depositing. If the angle of the drop of water is greater than 90 °, the film resulting from the composition is considered to be hydrophobic, insofar as it has no affinity for water. If the angle of the sebum drop is greater than 90 °, the film resulting from the composition is considered to be lipophobic, insofar as it has no affinity for artificial sebum. Measuring the angle after 5 minutes makes it possible to evaluate the evolution of the affinity between water / sebum and the film formed from the film-forming composition of the invention.
    The contact angle of the drop of water measured is greater than 100 ° for compositions 1, 2 and 3 (at T = 0 and after 5 min). The compositions thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
    The contact angle of the drop of sebum measured for compositions 1, 2 and 3 (at T = 0 and after 5 min) is presented in table 3 below:
    Table 3
    Time measurement Contact angle of the sebum drop (°) Composition 1 (invention) T = 0 75.3 +/- 1.6 ° After 5 min 75.5 +/- 1.6 ° Composition 2 (comparative) T = 0 51.2 +/- 0.50 ° After 5 min 48.2 +/- 0.70 ° Composition 3 (comparative) T = 0 51.7 +/- 0.80 ° After 5 min 42.82 +/- 0.30 °
    These results show that all the compositions form strongly hydrophobic films, and that the film obtained from composition 1 of the invention is distinguished by better resistance to sebum (and therefore to perspiration) than those formed from the compositions. 2 and 3. In addition, there is no spreading of the drop of sebum over time on the sample coated with composition 1. The film formed from the composition of the invention is distinguished by a lower affinity with sebum, it therefore resists it much better than the films formed from compositions 2 and 3 of the prior art.
    · Flexibility test:
    The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm X 50 mm) to have 3 g of dry film. The samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity. The films formed after drying are then delicately peeled from the molds, then wound on cylinders of different diameters, starting with the cylinder with the largest diameter (0) (0 = 5 mm, 0 = 10 mm, 0 = 20 mm , 0 = 30 mm, 0 = 40 mm and 0 = 50 mm).
    If the film breaks during the test, the value of flexibility is that of the last diameter on which the film. If the film remains intact until the end of the test, the value of flexibility corresponds to the smallest diameter existing on the flexible shaft, i.e. 0 = 5 mm.
    The results of the flexibility test are presented in Table 4 below:
    Table 4
    FlexibilityDiameter (mm) Composition 1 (invention) 5.0 Composition 2 (comparative) 50.0 Composition 3 (comparative) 50.0
    • Flexibility test:
    The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm X 50 mm) to have 3 g of film. The samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity to form a film. Their flexibility is then evaluated using a TA.XTPIus texturometer with a support for five-hole HDP / FSR 5 film and a 5 mm P / 5S sphere.
    Measurement conditions:
    - Detection force: 0.1 g,
    - Falling speed: 0.5 mm / s,
    - Fall distance: 2 mm,
    - Flow speed: 0.5 mm / s, and
    - Three measurements / hole on five holes.
    The results of the flexibility test are presented in table 5 below:
    Table 5
    FlexibilityResilience (%) FlexibilityRelaxation (%) Composition 1(invention) 21 60 Composition 2 (comparative) Brittle film
    Unmeasurable Composition 3 (comparative) Brittle filmUnmeasurable
    The film obtained from composition 1 representative of the invention is the only one for which it is possible to obtain a test value. It is therefore significantly more flexible than those obtained from compositions 2 and 3, which form films which are too brittle and whose flexibility cannot be assessed.
    EXAMPLE 2:
    Two mascara compositions, a MASCARA 1 (invention) and a MASCARA 2 10 (comparison), having the following compositions were prepared according to the protocol described below:
    Table 6: Composition of MASCARA 1 (invention)
    Phases Ingredients % Al Paraffin SASOLWAX 6203 (SALSOL) 8 Al Beeswax CERABEIL BLANCHIE DAB (BAERLOCHER) 5 Al Carnauba wax CERAUBA YELLOW FLOR SEQUINS (BAERLOCHER) 5 Al UNIMER U-15 VP / eicosene copolymer (GIVAUDAN ACTIVE) 3 A2 C 337001 SUN PURO BL I.O. TR SA (MIYOSHI) consisting of:- 7.84% black iron oxide- 0.16% polydimethylsiloxane 8 A3 Isododecane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 16 A3 BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) consisting of:- 21.75% isododecane- 2.50% hectorite disteardimonium- 0.75% propylene carbonate 25 A3 DOW CORNING® FA 4004 ID SILICONE (DOW CORNING) consisting of:- 6.00% isododecane,- 4.00% of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer 10 A3 TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:- 7.00% isododecane,- 3.00% trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan 10 A3 Polymethylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10 Total 100
    Table 7: Composition of MASCARA 2 (comparison)
    Phases Ingredients % Al Paraffin SASOLWAX 6203 (SALSOL) 8 Al Beeswax CERABEIL BLANCHIE DAB (BAERLOCHER) 5 Al Carnauba wax CERAUBA YELLOW FLOR SEQUINS (BAERLOCHER) 5 Al UNIMER U-15 VP / eicosene copolymer (GIVAUDAN ACTIVE) 3 A2 C 337001 SUN PURO BL I.O. TR SA (MIYOSHI) consisting of:- 7.84% black iron oxide- 0.16% polydimethylsiloxane 8 A3 Isododecane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 16 A3 BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) consisting of:- 87.0% isododecane- 10.0% hectorite disteardimonium- 3.0% propylene carbonate 25 A3 KP-550 (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:- 6.00% isododecane,- 4.00% of acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer 10 A3 TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:- 7.00% isododecane,- 3.00% trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan 10 A3 Trimethylsiloxysilicate BELSIL® TMS 803 (WACKER CHEMIE GMBH) 10 Total 100
    The mascaras are prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase Al, then heating them in a water bath at 85 ° C for 30 minutes. When the mixture is melted, the ingredients of phase A2 are added and mixed vigorously with a spatula. The ingredients of phase A3 are mixed in a TURBOTEST shaker (VMI) at room temperature (25 ° C), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Phase A3 is then poured into the mixture of phases Al + A2, and mixed using a spatula. The mixture obtained is then rolled in an EXAKT 50i three-cylinder mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
    • Chemical resistance:
    MASCARAS 1 and 2 are applied homogeneously to false eyelashes (Reference H1601 from the Seaforesthair Company) by making 3X10 passages over the entire fringe of the false eyelashes, allowing them to dry at 20 ° C for 2 minutes between each of the three passages, then 1 hour before starting the test.
    The dried false eyelashes are then placed in a first jar comprising 15 mL of artificial sweat (consisting of 99.0% purified water, 0.5% RonaCare® Urea (Merck) and 0.5% chloride sodium (Merck)), then stirred using a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) at a speed of 400 revolutions / minute, for a period of 2 minutes.
    The false eyelashes are then placed in a second jar comprising 15 ml of artificial sebum, then stirred using a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) at a speed of 400 revolutions / minute, for a period of 2 minutes.
    The visual aspect of MASCARAS 1 and 2 in each of these media is observed and presented in Figure 1. The two MASCARAS 1 and 2 have good resistance to perspiration and sebum (absence of dissolution of the mascara and formation of particles solid).
    • Membership test:
    The adhesion test is carried out as in Example 1 using an automatic spreader and a bar of 100 μm air gap. The samples are then dried for 3 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity.
    The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated according to the same scale as that presented in Example 1. The results are presented in FIG. 2.
    MASCARA 1 has very good adhesion, the mascara film remaining almost entirely on the contrast card, while MASCARA 2 completely peels off from the contrast card.
    • Wettability test:
    The wettability test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1, by measuring at room temperature (25 ° C.) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on films from MASCARAS 1 and 2 compositions.
    The contact angle of the measured drop of water is greater than 100 ° for MASCARAS 1 and 2 (at T = 0 and after 5 min). The compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2 thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
    The contact angle of the drop of sebum measured on the films resulting from the compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2 are presented in table 8 below:
    Table 8
    Time measurement Contact angle of the sebum drop (°) MASCARA 1 (invention) T = 0 79.9 After 5 min 70.8 MASCARA 2 (comparison) T = 0 57.8 After 5 min 41.8
    • Flexibility test:
    The flexibility test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1. The mascaras having a dry extract of 49.25%, 6.10 g of mascara are placed in the molds to obtain 3 g of dry film.
    The results of the flexibility test are presented in Table 9 below:
    Table 9
    FlexibilityDiameter (mm) MASCARA 1 (invention) 10.0 MASCARA 2 (comparative) 50.0
    • Flexibility test:
    The flexibility test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1, but with a drying time of 3 hours, instead of 24 hours.
    The results of the flexibility test on MASCARAS 1 and 2 are presented in table 10 below:
    Table 10
    FlexibilityResilience (%) FlexibilityRelaxation (%) MASCARA 1 (invention) 18.5 71 MASCARA 2 (comparative) 11 Rupture of the film on the 2nd stretching
    Resilience corresponds to the film's capacity to restore the energy caused by deformation (0%: no recovery in shape - 100%: perfectly elastic).
    Relaxation corresponds to the time necessary for the film to regain its initial shape after two successive stretches (0%: no relaxation - 100%:
    immediate relaxation).
    The MASCARA 1 representative of the invention has better mechanical performance in terms of flexibility and suppleness than the MASCARA 2 representative of the prior art. MASCARA 1 is more natural to the touch, and has a less cardboard effect than MASCARA 2.
    EXAMPLE 3:
    A foundation according to the invention having the following composition was prepared according to the following process:
    Table 11
    Phases Ingredients % Al Cyclopentasiloxane (MOMENTIVE) 15.0 A2 SunCHROMA ™ C47-051 Titanium Dioxide (SUNCHEMICAL) 12.5 Al Isododecane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 17.7
    Al BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) consisting of:- 87.0% isododecane- 10.0% hectorite disteardimonium- 3.0% propylene carbonate 10.0 Al DOW CORNING® FA 4004 ID SILICONE (DOW CORNING) consisting of:- 6.00% isododecane,- 4.00% of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer 10.0 Al TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:- 7.00% isododecane,- 3.00% trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan 10.0 Al Polymethylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10.0 A2 Phenyl trimethicone FLUID DC® 556 (DOW CORNING) 9.0 A3 Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane KSP-100 copolymer (SHIN-ETSU) 3.0 A2 Untreated yellow iron oxide C 339001 SUN PURO YELLOW (SUNCHEMICAL) 1.8 A2 Untreated red iron oxide C 338021 SUN PURO RED (SUNCHEMICAL) 0.5 Al Phenoxyethanol (IMCD) 0.3 A2 Untreated black iron oxide C 337001 SUN PURO BLACK (SUNCHEMICAL) 0.2 Total 100,00
    The foundation is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A1 with a VMI RAYNERI shaker, at room temperature.
    The ingredients of phase A2 are mixed using a spatula, then laminated three times in a row in a three-cylinder mill EXAKT 50i (EXAKT
    TECHNOLOGIES).
    The phases A1 and A2 are then mixed in a VMI RAYNERI agitator, then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX® (IKA) at 5000 revolutions / minute, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
    The ingredient A3 is then added to phases A1 and A2, then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX® (IKA) at 8000 rpm, until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
    The foundation of the invention has particularly remarkable flexibility and hold properties, in accordance with those sought for the invention.
    权利要求:
    Claims (24)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    1. Film-forming composition characterized in that it comprises:
    (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound is a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan in which the alkyl groups are preferably Ci-C 6 .
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound is tri methyl si loxysi lylca rba moyl pullulan.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the copolymer (ii) is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polysilsesquioxane resin is a resin of formula (R-SiO 3/2) x wherein:
    R represents a C1-C20 alkyl radical, a C1-C20 alkenyl radical, a C 3 -C i2 cycloalkyl radical, a C4-C12 aryl radical, or a C1-C20 aralkyl radical, and x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin, preferably chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% , by weight of the total weight of said composition.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane (ii) copolymer represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and again more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of said composition.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) represents from 1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 25%, and even more preferably from 5 to 15%, by weight the total weight of said composition.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises:
    from 10 to 25% by weight of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii) + (iii), from 15 to 30% by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / copolymer polydimethylsiloxane (ii) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and from 50 to 70% by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii ) + (iii).
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said volatile solvent (iv) represents from 10% to 70%, preferably from 15 to 65%, and even more preferably from 20 to 60%, in weight of the total weight of said composition.
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said volatile solvent (iv) is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said composition also comprises a silicone elastomer, different from the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii), advantageously chosen from polydimethylsiloxane, methyl-polysiloxane, vinyl-methyl -polysiloxane, phenyl-vinyl-methylpolysiloxane, fluoro-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
    [14" id="c-fr-0014]
    14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that said composition also comprises a film-forming polymer chosen from:
    the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), and preferably the copolymers of VP and of C 2 -C 20 alkene, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone,
    - copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate ,
    polyolefins or polyalphaolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
    the alkylcelluloses, and preferably the alkylcelluloses carrying a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
    - polyvinyl alcohols, and
    - their mixtures.
    [15" id="c-fr-0015]
    15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said composition also comprises a coloring material advantageously chosen from pigments and nacres.
    [16" id="c-fr-0016]
    16. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that said composition also comprises a wax advantageously chosen from:
    so-called “polar” waxes, such as beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, wax Sumac, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of '' animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C 8 -C 3 2, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, so-called "apolar" waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, waxes polyethylene, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, and mixtures thereof.
    [17" id="c-fr-0017]
    17. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that said composition also comprises a gelling compound, advantageously chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; triesters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acid and of mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri (hydroxystearate); said gelling compound preferably being a natural or synthetic clay chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites, such as '' a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two alkyl radicals in Ci 4 -C 2 o, such as the distéardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.
    [18" id="c-fr-0018]
    18. Film characterized in that it consists of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17.
    [19" id="c-fr-0019]
    19. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips.
    [20" id="c-fr-0020]
    20. Mascara characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of 5 claims 1 to 17.
    [21" id="c-fr-0021]
    21. Foundation characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17.
    10
    [22" id="c-fr-0022]
    22. Lipstick characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17.
    [23" id="c-fr-0023]
    23. Process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises a step of application to keratin materials, the skin
    15 and / or the lips of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17.
    [24" id="c-fr-0024]
    24. Make-up kit, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for removing and applying said composition to the keratin fibers, the
    20 skin and / or lips.
    MASCARA 1
    MASCARA 2
    1/2
    Artificial sweat Artificial sebum Cleaning gel
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    同族专利:
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    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US20070093619A1|2005-10-24|2007-04-26|L'oreal|Compositions having enhanced cosmetic properties|
    JP2009057308A|2007-08-31|2009-03-19|Shiseido Co Ltd|Oily cosmetic|
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    法律状态:
    2017-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2018-05-25| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20180525 |
    2019-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2020-11-20| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2021-11-18| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1661398A|FR3059002A1|2016-11-23|2016-11-23|FILMOGENIC COMPOSITION BASED ON PULLULAN AND ITS USES IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIP|
    FR1661398|2016-11-23|PCT/FR2017/053205| WO2018096262A1|2016-11-23|2017-11-22|Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips|
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